Gunks 07

Ok, finally back from a long awaited trip to the Gunks in New Paltz, NY. This was my third trip to the craigs, and I'd have to say it was the best yet. Rob, Trace, NoJ Simpson and Jersey Todd and I drove down Saturday, climbed till Thrusday night and left Friday morning. The weather was great save for one evening and morning where we got thundershowered, otherwise we only had to contend with the heat and humidity.
The following lines were climbed by teams I was a part of. *'s are arbitrary:
Rhododendron (5.3)
Betty (5.4)
Horseman (5.5)
Jackie (5.6), Shockley's Roof p1,2&3 (5.6)**, High Exposure p1&2 (5.6)**, Frog's Head p1&2 (5.6-)
Classic p1&2 (5.7)*, Ken's Crack (5.7)***, City Lights p1&2 (5.7)*, Laurel (5.7)*
Son of Easy O p1 (5.8)**,
Directissima p1 (5.9)*, Ant's Line (5.9)***
Retaliation (5.10+)**
Everyone had a great time, and no injurys were incurred. Retaliation was an amazing climb which I want to repeat, and Directissima will certainly see the completion of the top two pitches in my next visit.
Special thanks to Peter and Jason, a couple of locals who showed us all the cool spots and made us feel right at home. Also thanks to the R&S chica for the morale boost and the sweet deal on my nomics. See you all in the fall.

Midnight Rescue!

Ok, before I post my Gunks trip, I had a little outing tonight I thought I should share.
So my brother calls me from a scout camp that he's attending about 30 minutes away and he tells me that he and some fellow scouts decided to rig this crazy incendiary device on a string that would slide down from a tree and ignite the campfire to start this crazy ceremony they were having. In the process, one of the older scouts (20 or so) decides to put on a harness and shimmy up a tree to string up the line. He gets about 20 feet up and freezes, unable to move up or down. He fortunately slings himself to the tree (poorly) and tells my bro the problem. They keep it on the down low until everyone leaves and then he calls me up.
So I have to drive out there in the middle of the night because no-one has anything they can rescue him with. Most un-resourceful scout troop ever. I end up soloing up the tree in my ice gear to rescue the kid, and all ended well. I also got to try out my new axes (hooooooot) and now can't wait for ice season.
Cheers,
Matthew.

Before the Fall

Out last weekend to Welsford before the closeure with Rob, Trace, Mal, Todd and some friends of theirs. I got down to Exfoliated wall where I seldom climb and hit up some of the tough sport routes on the left side. Todd and Trace quickly dispatched Mental Hygene and Fern Gully to warm up, and I was able to follow their good example by putting down The Juggler and Sleeping Beauty. Don, doing an excellent job at photo duty, took some great shots of the climbs, as can be seen at his site http://donricker.smugmug.com/gallery/2947631#P-1-15
Above is me having a crack at The Juggler 5.10a. Also, I'd like to put in a plug for the DMM Revolver, expensive, but awesome.
Gunks next weekend!