Bar Harbor!

Just back from an amazing trip to Bar Harbor where we climbed at Precipice cliffs. John Cory, Chris Hennigar, Krissy Lunney, Jennifer Barth, John Bowles, Chris Norfolk, Eric Burley and I all headed down Friday to camp at Clifton and drink our faces off to different degrees. Hangover ridden next morning, we got an alpine start and managed (barely) to keep it in until we got to the cliffs. I have to say that place is amazing. Like a small welsford with better quality rocks and routes, and sooo many crack climbs! Saturday I got on
Old Town 5.7
Gunklandia 5.7 pitch 1-2
Return to Forever 5.9+
Connecticut Cracks 5.11a

This included the Tri-simulclimb of Old Town by Hennigar, Jenn Barth and I. We tied in about five feet apart and climbed in a block. Crazy. I tried to get a quad-simulabseil going at the top, but there were no buyers. Saturday night saw us hit the town, which was pretty cool, but crawling with cops.

After camping out on the side of the road somewhere, we got another alpine start with the help of High octane Gangsta coffee. and headed back to the cliffs. Sunday saw the sending of
Bartelby 5.8
Recollections of Pacifica 5.9-
Wafer Step 5.5
Chicken of the Sea 5.9
Green Mountain Shakedown 5.9+

Back in town, we saw a couple of souped up pickups with hydraulics and dragger bars that would throw out sparks 20 ft behind them! We egged on one guy to give us a show, but the 5-0 were waiting in the bushes and he got nailed and kicked out of town. Brutal! Dinner was then had and we boogied for home late. Great place and I can't wait to get back there soon!
Matthew.

Welsford is back.

The Cochraine lane hiatus is over! Finally climbers are allowed back into (most of) this hallowed NB craig. I finally bit the bullet on Saturday and lead up Pink Panther Direct, which while burley, was not nearly as scary as I had it pegged to be. I do have a thing or two to learn about protecting roofs however.
Minkey was well populated on Saturday by those of us who braved the J Corey hangover to regain the glorious granite, and the peregrine's treated us to quiet the show by turfing a few of the local Vultures who got too close.
Sunday saw bizarre weather and cool climbing conditions. It turns out Its a Way of Life is just as good as it always was, and in the words of Burley "I still have to stop and remember to place pro".
Next week: Bar Harbor or Gumby's Roof? What's it gonna be?
Cheers,
Matthew.
Credits to F. Berube for the picture, until I can upload one of mine.